Menswear waits for no one. So while we might still be able to see our breath outdoors, it’s time to start looking ahead to see what’s set to be big once the temperatures rise.
From technical tailoring to trousers that won’t lower your sperm count, this is your first look at the trends we expect to hit hard for spring/summer 2016.
The Cuban Collar Now that most of us have confronted our once debilitating fears of short-sleeved shirts, designers are setting us new challenges. Enter the Cuban collar shirt – the open, almost notch lapel-like collared style our grandfathers probably couldn’t get enough of in the 1950s.
There was a black version embroidered with pink palm trees at Dries Van Noten, while Patrick Grant’s take at E. Tautz ran the gamut from geometric prints to plain pale indigo and almost all were boxy in their cut. If you’re bored silly of Oxford button-downs, a Cuban collar short-sleeved shirt is the ideal piece to shake things up. But you’ll want to be sure to keep the cut fitted and the style itself low-key, so try plain, neutral designs for starters and wear neatly tucked into a slightly looser-leg trouser for the full 1950s effect.
Shades Of Green As ever, military influences continue to march right alongside menswear, with shades of army green (from dark olive to light khaki) spotted at Canali and Calvin Klein Collection. This season also saw the colour spectrum widen even further, with hues like bottle green at Burberry and jade at Brioni proving green is far and away SS16’s key colour.
Arguably the easiest trend to dip your toe into, try wearing head-to-toe green once spring hits. While all-over neutrals work best with subtle differences in colour and texture, you’ll want to clearly clash shades of green to strike the right balance – look to Hermès’ dark olive lightweight bomber and jade green trousers pairing to see how it’s done.
Jackets On Jackets We tend to spend a lot of time extolling layering’s practical benefits. And while there’s no disputing them, layering’s also worth looking at for its stylistic potential. Take, for example, Casely-Hayford’s SS16 show, which featured a featherweight navy coat layered underneath a fire engine red blouson jacket, or Ermenegildo Zegna’s offering, which included a dusty pink notched lapel blazer layered over a checked double-breasted jacket. While it might all sound messy on paper, put together it’s the ideal way to marry colours, patterns or textures.
To properly execute this trend you need to focus on two things: fabric weight and complementary cuts. Firstly, to stop yourself from overheating, choose lightweight layers made from cotton, linen or nylon. Secondly, rather than awkwardly jarring your layers, try a shorter structured layer as your base, while keeping your exterior layer relaxed in form and slightly longer in length.
Wide-leg Trousers We’ve been seeing wider-legged trousers for a couple of years now, SS16 is the first season we saw so many finally translate from runway to real life. ¬From Casely-Hayford’s front pleat styles to Dolce & Gabbana’s floral takes, relaxed trousers were offered up as the perfect way to ensure your legs stay cool during summer.
It’s the brave man who’d attempt some of SS16’s particularly capacious cuts, but roomier styles with a just-right break are a cinch to wear with everything from tees to short-sleeved shirts and blazers. Put simply, aim for a pair that sit somewhere between allowing your legs to breathe and samurai levels of billowing fabric.
So, which of these spring/summer trends are you ready to embrace, and which shouldn’t see the light of day?