Day 2 of Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week: I’m holding a double Americano, with the New
York Times shoved between my Americano and my hand to keep it from burning off. As I stepped onto the A train, the first thing I did was find a seat, and open the paper to the Fashion. “Playing With Risk And Constraint”, Eric Wilson starts his Fashion Review with; “… there’s only so much you can do within the confines of men’s wear without looking weird… if men’s designers do not get more love, then ‘why bother?’”
My assignment out of the gate: Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week – shoot men’s wear Runway.
I’m afraid Wilson was right; men fashion is working with large constraints compared to its counterparts in Europe. Rag and Bone, Tommy Hilfiger, Band Of Outsiders were only showing ladies on that Runway for Spring 2013 fashion, and that’s just to name a few.
- you’ve confused me here Missy …. Are you talking about ladies on the Runway? If so ‘which’ runway (you say “on that runway”); Spring 2013 or Spring 2014?
Street Style was my only option. Once I changed focus, my whole fashion-world view changed. I call the men on the streets of MB New York Fashion Week, the Polished Sporty
Professional, or “PSP’s”. They are, lucky for us, the polar opposite to the “LSD’s” or Laconic Sardonic Disquieting crowd, who are totally no fun. “PSP’s” have freshly cut and neatly shaped hair, three piece suits, cigarettes, running shoes, handkerchiefs around the neck, classic blazers over leopard- spotted camouflage jeans, computer bags wrapped around their bodies, double breasted wool-shorts suit, print, print and more print. Loafers, zip-neck shirts, colour-blocking, scoop necks, and super trendy sunnies in all shapes and sizes. Can you picture him? The sartorial man of New York chooses his outfit with intelligence, but acts as if he has forgotten all about it.
Day 3 of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week: I am waiting for the A train holding a double Americano,
with the New York Times shoved between my Americano and my hand to keep it from burning off. As I walked onto the train, searched for a seat, and opened my paper to the Fashion, I read “Shedding The Uniform”, and Bree Shapiro writes, “It was hard to miss Russell Westbrook during New York Fashion Week, and not just because the Oklahoma City Thunder point guard stands 6-foot-3 and weighs around 185 pounds”. Sitting front row at the Rag & Bone show, the only thing you spy was a bowler hat sitting nicely on a properly dressed 6-foot-3, 185 pound man in a long-sleeve blue-printed shirt paired with olive cuffed capris, parked next to legend Anna Wintour.
New York Fashion Week holds a reputation as the sophisticated audience. Who attends the show is now far more important that what’s on the runway. It would seem. Fashion for men is changing. Pardon me; fashion for men on the streets is changing.
This wave of Street Style has created a runway of its own. The sidewalks are the new runways, and who sits front row is now our new high fashion.
The styles are sophisticated, intelligent, elegant, and yet effortless. PSP’s unite!